Corn: The Golden Gift from our Ancestors
By Lorena
Garcia
The Aztec emperor Moctezuma might have
paced slowly from side to side in his palace, carefully keeping
his penacho, his feathered crown, in place. He would gaze with
admiration at the bounty of his beautiful kingdom, Tenochtitlán.
Marble, jade, gold, silver and colored stones decorated his
palace throughout. And everywhere he looked amongst the
breathtaking floating gardens, he could see the abundance of the
corn which would feed his subjects.
Since corn was the Aztecs' main source
of nutrition, an abundant harvest was vital. The people would
worship the god of rain, Tlaloc, at the Temple of Agriculture in
order to encourage adequate moisture for their corn crops. And
they worshipped the god of corn, Cinteótl, and the corn goddess,
Chicomencóatl, at numerous ceremonies.
Once they harvested the corn, the
Aztecs prepared it in a familiar way. The Indians soaked the
grains overnight in a large pot of water with ashes or pieces of
lime. Then the next day, the kernels, or nixtamal, were cooked
until boiling, then drained of water. Next the Aztecs ground the
corn on a flat stone (metate) with a longer, rock "rolling-pin"
(mano). The resulting mush would be formed and flattened and
baked into tortillas on a small clay griddle called a comal.
The Aztecs taught their children to
revere corn and ritualized their consumption. Adults gave their
children ate half a tortilla per day. When they reached six
years of age, children were allowed one and a half per day.
Finally, when they reached thirteen, they could eat two
tortillas per day.
In the 1500s the Aztecs' Tenochtitlán
was a large city, and as its population increased, sowing and
harvesting corn was more intensive. Corn, chile, beans and
maguey (century plant) were the basic crops of Aztec
agriculture.
When Cortes, the conqueror of Mexico,
landed in Veracruz in 1519, he was surprised by the greatness of
Tenochtitlán. He wrote several letters to Carlos V, the King of
Spain, expressing his admiration of different aspects of the
Aztec culture and their daily routine. He mentioned the
well-cultivated cornfields by creating a vivid image of the
crops. He reported that he found corn growing everywhere. On at
least two occasions, his cavalry was unable to cross through the
dense cornfields.
Corn retained its importance even after
the conquest of the Aztec empire by Cortes in 1521. In the
1650's corn was cultivated by the Indians for their own
consumption on communal lands. Wealthy Spaniards also grew
corn on their large haciendas. The crops produced on these
farmlands were sold and consumed by the Spanish and the
mestizos, who were the racial mixture of Spanish and Indian
peoples.
In the eighteen century, Mexico
extended its territory, increasing its population and wealth.
These changes did not affect the agriculture of the Indian
communities where corn cultivation still remained important. In
addition to the new crops grown on the haciendas, such as wheat
and tobacco, corn cultivation spread throughout these new
territories.
Corn cultivation today in Mexico is
very extensive but still not sufficient to feed its rapidly
expanding population. Since 1944, due to a severe agricultural
crisis, Mexico has had to import corn from the United States.
Eighty percent of the corn consumed in Mexico is locally grown,
with the balance imported from the U.S.
The most popular use of corn on the
border is still the tortilla. Tortillas are used as bread and
for tacos, tostadas, enchiladas and many other dishes. In 1988
approximately 300 million tortillas were consumed in Mexico
alone. As in Moctezuma's time, corn is still the most important
basic food on the border.
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